Here's a look at the Behringer monitor. I'll get some stuff to do modifications and see if it makes a measurable difference. I'm going to try and generate some plots using the new REW so we can get a better look at resonance issues. The crossover looks like a minimalist WGed 2-way with just a cap and resistor in the tweeter with a 2nd order low pass. The active version should do much better in this regard even though there's not a huge problem in the passive version. We see poly caps, an iron core inductor, and a wirewound resistor. The baffle is stout on the woofer half, but thinner on the tweeter. Enclosure damping is certainly less than I've ever used. That may be where we could best improve the design.
EDIT: The break up is benign on this cone! Response issues are caused by the enclosure/ports next to the tweeter.
What do you think about Wmax's $20 mod?
ReplyDelete[ $20 mod:
-Remove front face plate cover and drivers.
-Add in 2" of high density rockwool or high density fiberglass insulation board such as Owens Corning 705. This will provide improved internal acoustic dampening; most speakers have insufficient material and this is no exception.
-Use liquid superglue and apply generously into the crack between the magnet shield can and motor on the woofer. This joint is only crimped and has some slack, causing possible resonance/vibration at certain frequencies. The super thin glue liquid will harden deep in the crack preventing this problem.
-Use rope caulk or preferably Parts Express gasket caulk / mastic and apply between where the tweeter connects to the front face of the speaker. Simply remove the screws, place the putty like material in very thin amount on all opposing surfaces, and re-install tweeter. Use your fingernal to scrap off excess that squeezes through on front side of face around the joint. This will fix an air breach.
-Apply more rope caulk or preferably Parts express gasket caulk around the back edge of tweeter motor and it's own face plate to prevent air leak. Do not remove screws from tweeters motor and it's own face plate. Only apply externally around the edge, including around the metal wire connection terminals. ]
I want to buy the Behringer B2030A.
Nauscopio Scipiorum Sala de Andreu. Campo cercano. MP3 versus FLAC. 16/44 versus 24/96. B2031P versus Trevi+sub. Campo lejano y multicanal.
-> Google Translate ES -> EN
Nauscopio Scipiorum Sala de Andreu. Campo cercano. MP3 versus FLAC. 16/44 versus 24/96. B2031P versus Trevi+sub. Campo lejano y multicanal.
-> Google Translate ES -> EN
Those mods make sense and certainly cheap/easy enough to try. Stuffing cotton balls in the ports made the biggest difference I could hear/measure.
ReplyDeleteDan
Have you tried to change the fill rock wool? Did you make measurements?
ReplyDeleteI opened a thread in this forum Spanish.
matrixhifi.com Modificando Behringer B2030P: aislante y tuneo de altavoces
If you are interested in participating ...
No, but I wouldn't think it would make much difference. I could be wrong, but for the frequencies in question(ones significantly smaller than the enclosure), regular fluffy insulation should work well inside, and cotton for the ports make a a remarkable difference. Stuffing the ports is for diffraction control, not any of the bass changes in case I didn't state that anywhere on here.
ReplyDeleteMy Espanol es no bueno, but I will read to see what I can learn. Yo comprendo un poquito. lol Thanks for the link.
Dan
Perhaps with this modding:
ReplyDeletepcpaudio.com Modificación de un tweeter
$20 mod (WmAx)
[ -Use rope caulk or preferably Parts Express gasket caulk / mastic and apply between where the tweeter connects to the front face of the speaker. Simply remove the screws, place the putty like material in very thin amount on all opposing surfaces, and re-install tweeter. Use your fingernal to scrap off excess that squeezes through on front side of face around the joint. This will fix an air breach. ]